East of the Sun Trip Part 5 : in which I conclude that the world is in fact magical

East of the Sun Trip Part 5 : in which I conclude that the world is in fact magical and get new bruises on my butt

Our fourth sunrise in Lobéké. We rise, significantly less shinily than the sun, and start for the savanna. Valentin calls after us: “Today, you will see a gorilla!” 

“Promise?” I grump back. 

“You’ll see,” he responds, with his ever-present grin. 

We settle down, expecting to see nothing as we have for the other hours we spent in this electric blue tower. But I swear, not thirty minutes after our arrival, who wanders into the clearing but a gorilla! A big ol’ silverback gorilla. He’s huge and clearly old, with a pure white back and a coppery red head. Apparently, the older males get kicked out of their families by younger and stronger males, and then they are just solitary until they die, which seems pretty darn sad to me. But he’s beautiful, wandering around and munching some greens, in no hurry to leave. Neither are we. But once he’s gone, all three of us have a sense of MISSION ACCOMPLISHED, so we don’t hang around any longer.

Barely back in camp, I’m already shouting to Valentin: “We saw a gorilla! We saw a gorilla!” 

We’re all giddy with joy and relief, even Valentin and Frederick and Prospère, who knew how badly we wanted to see a gorilla and didn’t want us to leave without seeing one any more than we did. We pack our stuff and begin the hike back to Pont Cassé, where the WWF car will pick us up to drive us back to Mambélé, and head out. ONLY TO BE CHARGED BY A SECOND SILVERBACK ON THE TRAIL! Of course, our three companions drop their stuff and go charging off after him. Weirdos. I was happy to sit on the trail until Valentin came back to regale us with a tale about when a “bad guy” gorilla ripped his dad’s arm out of its socket. 

So we leave Lobéké happy campers. 

The WWF car is SO COMFY and AIR CONDITIONED! We all try not to but can’t help falling asleep, avoiding the next puzzle: how on earth to get back? I literally cannot stop thinking about a shower. We’re worried about the return trip and desperately don’t want to spend another night in Mambele, but have very little control over whether or not we find transport out of here. There’s no taxis, no more travel agencies coming through this late in the afternoon. So what do we do? We go to the bar! Celebratory beers with Valentin and Frederick are most definitely in order. 

Valentin, with his new sunglasses & American flag scarf,
courtesy of Kate & her generosity :)

We’re seriously doubting that we’ll ever get out of Mambele. I am internally weeping at another night at the Doctor’s. Joe wanders off to ask Souley about finding a ride and whether or not anyone cooks beans. And Kate giddily starts a made up drinking game in which she picks a card, her victim has to guess what it is and then drinks the difference if they’re wrong. She has Valentin chugging his double-sized beer, but Frederick freakishly guesses three right in a row. What’s the chance of that? Like one in 140,608?! Do you believe in chance or in coincidence? As he gets his third right, Souley comes running in. “Grab your bags! You have a ride! A truck is leaving for Yoka right now!” 

Bye bye Mambélé!

YES! WE - ARE - OUTTA HERE! 

Outside, our chariot awaits (a big petrol transport truck. Which upon inquiry, is happily empty). Our two new favorite people, the driver and his helper, tightly pack our stuff and theirs behind their seats - then also tuck two of us behind their seats, on what is clearly the engine with cushions on top, and one of us into the passenger seat, along with the usual passenger.

We were in seventh heaven. High five-ing. Laughing uproariously at everything. Can’t-stop-grinning. 

For like the first thirty minutes, anyway. 

Packed into the petrol truck.

Then we realized how hot and uncomfortable and covered in filth we really are. Thomas and Divine, driver and helper, are anglophones who drive this route to deliver oil from Limbe (SW Cameroon) to Brazzaville (Congo). Each trip takes 7-10 days. It’s damn hard work and I do not envy them.  

Nevertheless, with only a few added bumps and bruises, 6 hours later we arrive in Yokaduma.

It’s bumping, as night has just fallen and the fast is broken and the market is loud and thriving. We are none of these things, just trying to buy food before getting to Auberge Elephant as fast as possible. Which is basically heaven, since it has a mosquito net and running water. 

We sleep the sleep of the dead. 

One more day. One more day. A comforting mantra on this, the seventh day since we’ve left Kate’s house. We decide to spring for a private car, with dreams of faster and more comfy dancing in our heads. We get ripped off, but feel too helpless and tired to deal with it. The road is incredibly dusty and we drive it with the windows open. The car is in terrible condition and won’t start unless it’s rolling and we get one flat tire in the first hour and everything is terrible but I think I can, I think I can, I think I can…

There's dirt roads, and then there's DIRT ROADS.
I washed the right side of my face
for maximum dramatic effect.
Also, check out my USC Trojans shirt.
#FIGHTON

At one point, the chauffeur giggles crazily: “Bienvenue à l’extrème est! C’est l’enfer!” (Welcome to the “extreme” East! It’s Hell!) I couldn’t agree more, dude. 

Except when we (unexpectedly but not unhappily) switch cars in Batouri and take advantage of the stop to buy cold cokes. This, too, is heaven.

It’s amazing how much one appreciates the little things in such trying moments. 

After ten hours, 9am to 5pm, we’re in Bertoua. Bathing is the best. Our big chicken and plantains dinner is the best. We saw gorillas and it was the best. I’m with people I love, I’m clean, I’m full, I’m enjoying the prospect of good sleep in a bed. I am full of warm fuzzies. 

With such terrible travel and often bad attitudes, you must be wondering: if I had to go back would I do it again? Perhaps it’s a stereotype, but “African” experiences are tied with wildlife in my head. As Jens Bjerre said in his adventures in Kalahari, “We frequently stopped to watch the animals, for they communicate a deep meaning to the African landscape and give one a sense of unity with the trees, the earth, the grass, and the sky.” And this is something that has been missing from my time in Cameroon. But now I have seen gorillas. So yes, I would absolutely do it, no regrets. Kate? Yup, it’s something she definitely wanted to do before leaving. Joe? Actually, I don’t know if he would haha.

Bring on the next adventure!